304

HFDC-Horizontally Flooded Dry Cell

Physical Specs
'Modeled' Electrolyzer Design: 
Tero
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Rectangular
Number of Electrodes: 
8
Number of Cells: 
7
Electrolyte: 
NaOH
Electrolyzer Design Modifications: 

I cannibalized the plates from the Double Deuce electrolyzer (3"x6"in). Each plate had two holes (3mm) drilled in top and bottom centered. To avoid electrical leakage between holes, I cut my gaskets to something like 3"x5" one hole of each plate will go in the inner diameter of the cut gaskets, the other hole of each plate goes outside the diameter of the cut gasket and is used to make an electrical connection for whichever plates I wish to hook up. The holes are then staggered as each plate is stacked. To keep electrolyzer in each cell it had to be flooded. Also to keep circulation of hydroxy and electrolyte the cell has to lay horizontal. Circulation through the electroylzer to reservoir works perfect and does help in keeping it at lower temps. Hydroxy and electrolyte flow up to the reservoir, and electrolyte flows through the reservoir bottom, to bottom of elctrolyzer. used 1 Tsp of NaOH for 2qts distilled water.

Stats
LPM: 
1.1
Volts: 
12.5
Starting Amps: 
10
Amps when hot: 
10
Peak Temperature: 
Stayed around room temperature
Overall Design
Project Status: 
Building
Electrolyzer Problems: 

Going to model plate configuration after BB Smack
+ N N N N N N - - N N N N N N +

Alright, I tried the 16 plate design and my gaskets couldnt handle the pressure needed to push the unit in to circulation. Instead I just had little HHO bubbles coming out the sides.

Soo...

Still have to try adding more all-thread, or either go back to the 8 plate design and make two of em, or buy better gaskets...

Description of images uploaded below: 

Sorry about the crappy pic. I broke my camera and had to use my phone. The tube from the bottom of the electrolyzer goes in to the bottom of Reservoir(hard to see). Reservoir must stay above Electrolyzer to keep circulation

Click the images below for bigger versions:
Were Images Uploaded?: 
Yes

Prometheus 2.1

Test Date: 
11/25/2008
Test Number: 
1
Electrolyzer: 
Number of Electrodes: 
12
Electrode Dimensions (in Inches): 
4"X 6.28"
Electrode Surface Area in Inches: 
25.12
Electrode Arrangement: 
+-+-+-+-+-+-
Electrode Spacing (in Inches): 
0.125
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Tubes
Electrode Thickness in Gauge: 
0
Electrolyte Concentration (in % by weight): 
28
Electrolyte: 
KOH

Voltage Source: 
DC Power Supply
Starting Electrolyte Temperature: 
70
Starting Volts: 
13.8
Starting Gas Output (LPM): 
0.6
Starting Amps: 
9
Ending Volts: 
13.8
Ending Amps: 
9
Ending Output (LPM): 
0.6
Ending Electrolyte Temperature: 
70
Notes and Observations: 

Initial LPM test.
MMW=4.83
Faraday Efficiency=98.71%

Test of site's test data prt3

Test Number: 
3
Number of Electrodes: 
11
Electrode Dimensions (in Inches): 
4x4
Electrode Surface Area in Inches: 
16
Electrode Arrangement: 
+nnnn-nnnn+
Electrode Spacing (in Inches): 
0.2
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Plates
Electrode Thickness in Gauge: 
22
Electrolyte Concentration (in % by weight): 
20
Electrolyte: 
KOH

Voltage Source: 
vehicles alternator
Starting Electrolyte Temperature: 
76
Starting Volts: 
13.8
Starting Gas Output (LPM): 
0.9
Starting Amps: 
12
Ending Volts: 
13.5
Ending Amps: 
17
Ending Output (LPM): 
1.4
Ending Electrolyte Temperature: 
143
Notes and Observations: 

This is a fake test 3 to see if it works.

This page was a clone of the first one an I only changed the something...

Clone of Test of site's test data

Test Number: 
2
Number of Electrodes: 
9
Electrode Dimensions (in Inches): 
4x4
Electrode Surface Area in Inches: 
16
Electrode Arrangement: 
+nnn-nnn+
Electrode Spacing (in Inches): 
0.2
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Plates
Electrode Thickness in Gauge: 
22
Electrolyte Concentration (in % by weight): 
20
Electrolyte: 
KOH

Voltage Source: 
vehicles alternator
Starting Electrolyte Temperature: 
76
Starting Volts: 
13.8
Starting Gas Output (LPM): 
0.9
Starting Amps: 
12
Ending Volts: 
13.5
Ending Amps: 
17
Ending Output (LPM): 
1.4
Ending Electrolyte Temperature: 
143
Notes and Observations: 

This is a fake test 2 to see if it works.

This page was a clone of the first one an I only changed the electrolyte type.

Test of site's test data

Test Number: 
1
Number of Electrodes: 
9
Electrode Dimensions (in Inches): 
4x4
Electrode Surface Area in Inches: 
16
Electrode Arrangement: 
+nnn-nnn+
Electrode Spacing (in Inches): 
0.2
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Plates
Electrode Thickness in Gauge: 
22
Electrolyte Concentration (in % by weight): 
20
Electrolyte: 
KOH

Voltage Source: 
vehicles alternator
Starting Electrolyte Temperature: 
76
Starting Volts: 
13.8
Starting Gas Output (LPM): 
0.9
Starting Amps: 
12
Ending Volts: 
13.5
Ending Amps: 
17
Ending Output (LPM): 
1.4
Ending Electrolyte Temperature: 
143
Notes and Observations: 

This is a fake test to see if it works

Flooded Tero

Physical Specs
'Modeled' Electrolyzer Design: 
Tero
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Plates
Number of Electrodes: 
7
Number of Cells: 
1
Electrolyte: 
NaOH
Electrolyzer Design Modifications: 

Flooded design

Stats
LPM: 
0
Volts: 
13.8
Starting Amps: 
6
Amps when hot: 
7
Peak Temperature: 
100*F
Overall Design
Project Status: 
Installed
Click the images below for bigger versions:
Were Images Uploaded?: 
Yes

HomeMade-DryCells

Physical Specs
'Modeled' Electrolyzer Design: 
Tero
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Plates
Number of Electrodes: 
16
Number of Cells: 
1
Electrolyte: 
KOH
Electrolyzer Design Modifications: 

Using Smack Wall Plates hammered Flat, Use Gravity Feed to Cell from Separator.

Overall Design
Project Status: 
Not Complete
Final Electrolyzer Notes: 

Flattened Wall Plates, Cut gaskets to go between plates.

Click the images below for bigger versions:
Were Images Uploaded?: 
Yes

Cupodroxy

Physical Specs
'Modeled' Electrolyzer Design: 
Tero
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Cups
Number of Electrodes: 
8
Number of Cells: 
1
Electrolyte: 
NaOH
Electrolyzer Design Modifications: 

This is going to be a Cup version of a tero or 'dry cell'

Overall Design
Project Status: 
Not Complete
Final Electrolyzer Notes: 

I got my cups from wally world (walmart) so they probably arent the best quality SS. If this design works well, I'll seek out higher quality materials.

I have orings, washers and 'gum' tubing (very stretchy, should stretch around cups helping them seal) coming from Mcmaster... hopefully here by Sept. 19th.

I checked the chemical sheet for gum tubing it is listed s having zero chemical reaction with sodium hydroxide.... how convenient Smiling.

Update: 9-23-08: Posted 4 new pics
I still need to sand down my cups, drill holes in the bottom, figure out how to easily compress them, come up with a circular covering to keep the o-rings from sliding out, and figure out how to attach wires to the end plates. Other than that I'm basically done Smiling.

Description of images uploaded below: 

IMG1: My initial sketch and idea of this design.
IMG2 & 3: A stack of six cups with a square o-ring
IMG4 & 5: A closeup of the o-ring

Click the images below for bigger versions:
Were Images Uploaded?: 
Yes

Just Right

Physical Specs
'Modeled' Electrolyzer Design: 
Smack
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Rectangular
Number of Electrodes: 
16
Number of Cells: 
8
Electrolyte: 
NaOH
Electrolyzer Design Modifications: 

Using 1/4" plexi-glass to view the interior. 5/16" SS bolts for eletrical connections. 1/4" x 3" nylon hex nut (Ace Hardware) for carrier bolts. I prepped the plates with a Dremel and grinding bit to cross-hatch the plates.
It has a 3" dia. PVC bubbler about 9" tall.

Stats
LPM: 
1
Volts: 
13.8
Starting Amps: 
8
Amps when hot: 
20
Peak Temperature: 
about 140
Overall Design
Project Status: 
In storage
Electrolyzer Problems: 

The 1/4" SS bolts didn't hold up to a higher amp pull. Over 26 amps. Tested higher amps to see what it would do. Melted the 1/4" acrylic.
Also my vehicle lost it's water pump. Which costs too much to repair and I purchased a new vehicle.
It'll be in the vehicle section.

Final Electrolyzer Notes: 

When prepping the plates use gloves the oil from your fingers really does stop the production of good stuff. Use a relay to operate your generator!!! Lowes sells Roebic, 100% NaOH.
Cleaned the plates with 5 amps for a week steady. Conditioned the plates @ 14 amps for 10 days. About 20 hours per day run-time.
MMW @ 6.07
I wrapped the exterior with electical tape and super-glued the ends, to keep it from unravelling. I tried super-gluing .093 acrylic plates to the sides, but they came off.
Hope this helps everyone!!

Click the images below for bigger versions:
Were Images Uploaded?: 
Yes

Brute I and Brute II

Physical Specs
'Modeled' Electrolyzer Design: 
Tero
Electrode Material: 
304
Electrode Type: 
Plates
Number of Electrodes: 
8
Number of Cells: 
7
Electrolyte: 
NaOH
Electrolyzer Design Modifications: 

From the Tero I used alternating feed holes, and exhaust holes, but when it didn't work i flipped every other plate to line them up: that wasnt' the problem. All holes are 1/4". 7 cells is one of the problems. Nylon bolts was a bad idea. HDPV plastic end plates; easy drilling stuff.

Stats
LPM: 
0
Volts: 
14
Starting Amps: 
3
Peak Temperature: 
85 F.
Overall Design
Project Status: 
Testing
Electrolyzer Problems: 

Will be eliminating the 7th cell next build. Got rid of the nylon bolts: they can't be tightened. Tried plexi spacers with shower base sheet gaskets on either side: the stupid things both conduct electricity. (cheap plexi will) next build will be trying screen spline at .175"

Click the images below for bigger versions:
Were Images Uploaded?: 
Yes

Test Data for this Electrolyzer: 
Syndicate content